Condition: New, likely blemished. ONLY includes that which is shown in images. Please read blurb below:
We received these wheels amongst a thousand or so wheels of different sizes and varieties from a chain of bike shops from the southeast U.S. Due to the sheer number of wheels, we cannot go through and list each individually, showing all blemishes, etc. The manufacturer we obtained them from placed them in bike boxes with no protection keeping the wheels from bumping into one another. Obviously, this is less than ideal, but that is how they are. It is the buyer's responsibility to read these product details, and not expect 100% perfect wheels. If perfection is your goal, we generally stock high end, well kept, and individually checked wheels for a higher price and a reasonable guarantee to be free of blemishes. Our goal is to provide value based wheels for replacing broken or defective wheels on inexpensive or entry-level bikes.
Wheel size is not determined by measuring the diameter of the rim itself. A common 26" rim for example has roughly a 22" diameter. While being confusing, at one point, that rim was paired with a tire, and had a rough diameter of 26". Obviously, tires come in a wide variety of heights, changing their overall outer diameter. All of the wheels that we are selling, unless otherwise noted, are the common sizes. If the buyer has an older, or odd bike, and the tire's width is expressed as a fraction, not in decimal form, it is VERY important that the buyer does his/her best to figure out if they have an uncommon size. For example, 26" rims come in more than one diameter. 559mm bead seat diameter is the common size found in the past twenty or so years. But, if for example, you're trying to replace a rim on an old Schwinn with a tire size of 26 x 1-3/8", a normal 26" wheel will not work since the stock wheel will have a larger diameter.
Ball / cone type axles are the MOST common type of bearing system offered on bicycle wheels. However, they are not free of some inconveniences. While being nearly indestructible apart from extreme abuse and lack of maintenance, they often require work to spin with the least amount of friction as possible. Generally, wheels will come with the bearings tighter than most people would prefer. This is not unique to these wheels as it applies to nearly all wheels with this type of hub found everywhere - while seeming unlikely, it certainly is the truth (take it from me, a 20 year experienced mechanic). Normally when receiving any wheel from a wholesaler, a bicycle shop will have a mechanic perform minor truing, and hub adjustments before placing the item up for sale in the store for a higher price. Due to the sheer number of wheels, wanting to keep prices as low as possible, we will not be performing that service. It is the buyer's responsibility to ensure that the wheel is appropriately adjusted.
While it may seem a daunting task, most of these wheels will function without much work done to them, if any. While not spinning well by turning an axle with your fingers, once the force of a rider is applied, multiplied by the radius of the wheel, it is more than enough torque to get a wheel to spin. If optimal performance is desired, we recommend performing minor truing and axle ball/cone adjustments. Ball / cone hubs require some maintenance throughout the life of the wheel. If axle does not spin well, it is not defective, it just needs adjustment. Ball cone hubs operate by placing ball bearings between two surfaces which contain them. Of the two surfaces, one is the hub itself, and is not adjustable in any way. The axle has cone nuts, which have a curved surface on the inside of them matching the radius of the bearing it's meant to be used with. These nuts are adjustable by turning them in or out on the axle's threads. How far apart the cones are on either side of the hub will determine how well it spins. Too far apart, and excess play will be evident. Too close together, and the cones will place excess pressure on the bearings and not spin well. Lock nuts help the cones from moving in the future by turning the cone nut counterclockwise, while turning the lock nut clockwise against each other (requires a cone wrench and a metric, normal wrench - 2 wrenches). There are numerous how-to videos online as to how adjusting hubs is performed. It's a relatively simple task, but does require special, thin, cone wrenches (metric - usually between 11 and 19mm, with 13mm and 15mm being the most common sizes used). These wrenches can normally be purchased online, or at a shop relatively inexpensively, and is the perfect compliment for any DIYer.
Minor truing is likely required. We cannot guarantee the wheels to be perfectly trued as they arrive.
Wheels will likely exhibit scratches, and minor blemishes. If a scratch on the rim's brake surface is found to extend beyond the width of the rim, it is advised to knock down any high points that may interfere with brake pads lightly with sandpaper, or a file. These wheels have been in storage for a while. While in boxes, the boxes have holes to aid in moving the boxes (handles). They allow dust in. Any spoke prep oil, or grease attracts dust, and will require a light cleaner and a towel to remove.
We are providing this as a way to be perfectly honest with the customer - other sellers may not disclose this type of information. We do not wish to mislead, or cheat anyone out of their hard earned money; that is who we are. It is our experience that a minority of buyers have expectations that do not align with the true nature of entry to mid level wheels. While we absolutely would love it for every wheel to be exactly perfect right out of the box, keeping costs low, and providing value wheels to our buyers is of a higher importance to us. Having one person do a thousand wheels on the clock, versus a thousand people doing one wheel each on their own time is a huge difference in both time per person and money.