Fits 700c tires - from 700 x 18 up to 700 x 42 - the second
number is the width, the first refers to the diameter. How wide a tire
you can install depends on what type of clearance your frame has
between the seat stays and brake arms.
For rim brakes only - does not have mounts for disc brake rotors.
Not intended for use with 27" wheeled frames. They will fit, but
700c wheels are smaller in diameter than 27" and the brake pads will
not touch the rim's braking surface. Conversions are possible with
brakes with longer reach arms.
7 thru 10
7 thru 11
7 thru 10
Release (9MM) x 100mm2
Release (10mm) x 130mm2
11 speed road cassettes- No spacers are required
8 thru 10 Speed Road/MTB cassettes and 11s Shimano MTB
Cassettes - Use a 1.8mm Spacer (NOT
All 7 speed cassettes - Requires a 4mm wide spacer (NOT
included) plus the 1.8mm wide spacer.
Hub bodies made with a Shimano/SRAM spline pattern have three
7 speed hub body splines are approximately 28mm wide, and
thus the cassette is the same width.
8 thru 10 speed road hub body & 11s Shimano MTB
splines are approximately 33mm wide, so their cassettes are correspond
to that width
11 speed road hub body splines (like this one) are about
34.8mm wide, so their cassettes match that.
An 11s hub body can accomodate all the cassette speed
varieties. Using less than 11s simply requires eating up the additional
hub body space using spacers not occupied by a cassette. 11s hubs are a
fairly universal system to accomodate nearly all cassettes you'd likely
encounter. Exceptions to this rule are Campagnolo cassettes, and SRAM
XD driver cassettes. Campy cassettes and XD driver cassettes are NOT
Not compatible with single or multi-speed freewheels, or
convertible for fixed gear single speed use. If you are unsure what the
differences between a cassette and freewheels are, we'd recommend you
research the topic prior to your wheel purchase.
Does not include adapters, nor is it convertible to any other
Ball / Cone type hubs are the most common type of hub on
planet earth. While being nearly indestructable and serviceable,
optimal performance requires maintenance. If you're looking for
optimizing performance, we advise
that the cones are adjusted to your preferences, as well as checking
cone position, and re-greasing the bearings throughout the life of the
wheel. See the last image for a general diagram of this type of hub.
The closer the two cones are on either side of the hub the more
restrictive and poor the wheel will spin. The farther the two cones are
apart, the better a hub will spin, however, it may introduce play/slop
into the bearings if they are too far apart. The perfect position is
where the axle turns with
the least amount of resistance, and has no extra space between the
cones, bearings, and hub races (has no slop or play). The lock nuts
on either side of the axle lock the cone's position in place. It is
not unique to our brand of wheels, but the design of ball / cone type
hubs. Generally, the folks at the factory err on the side of too tight
rather than loose because being slightly too tight is better than too
loose. Adjustment usually requires one cone wrench (thin wrench), and a
standard box/open end wrench for the locknut. There are loads of videos
on youtube describing the process.